Tuscany: Introducing the Mad Butcher of Panzano!
Perched high on a ridge in the thick of Tuscany’s Chianti region is the charming town of Panzano. Half way between Florence and Siena and surrounded by vineyards, Panzano is the perfect base to explore the area. There’s another drawcard too: The Mad Butcher of Panzano.
(Before we begin, to all our vegetarian paraphernalians, please accept our apologies, this post is gratuitously carnivorous!)
The Butcher:
For the past 40 years, Dario Cecchini, an 8th generation butcher, has continued the traditional “nose to tail” philosophy of his forbearers. Infamous in foodie society with his larger than life personality, he promotes “respect for the animal in its life, its death and using everything to the very last tendon”.
Beef & Butchering:
Dario’s beef and pork are raised by trusted friends in Catalonia, Spain. He also has Chianina beef from the Manzetti family’s nearby Fontodi Farm in Panzano. A visit to the farm is included (weather and time permitting) in Dario’s Macellaio con Giorno or “Butcher for a Day” 3-hour morning class.
The Class:
Begin at a respectable 10-am and don your apron to get involved with the day’s preparations. You could be making Chianti butter, garlic sausages, prepping Arista in Porchetta (roast side of pork) or cutting the humongous portions of Bistecca Alla Fiorentina, the steaks Dario is famous for. Whatever is happening in the butcher shop that day, you’ll have a hand in, followed by lunch!
The Shop:
Regardless of whether you join the class, a visit to the butcher shop is a must. Take home the incredible Essence of Chianti seasoned salt, mustard or Mediterranean sauces. Salamis and cold meats can be consumed at your accommodation and if you have a BBQ, the butcher shop is your oyster, so to speak.
When the shop is busy, and it always is, red wine is shared with local Tuscan bread smeared with seasoned lard to settle the crowd. It’s a very civilised shopping experience.
And now to eat:
The addition of restaurants to the mix came from a simple desire to share the incredible flavours of well raised, respectfully treated, simply prepared beef and pork. It’s highly recommended you make a reservation. Patrons travel far and wide for this opportunity.
Make a bee-line for Solociccia, the butcher’s kitchen. Every day at 1-pm you can share a table with 20 – 30 like-minded carnivores directly above the butcher shop.
Coals have been prepped since early morning creating perfect cooking conditions and for €30 (no, it’s not a typo) you will have a 10-course meat experience of a lifetime….with wine.
Cooked and served family-style by the butchers themselves, you’re encouraged to have as much as you like, but be warned, there’s a lot!
Begin with muzzle and broth, don’t be frightened, give it a try. The health benefits of bone broth are many. Locally grown raw veggies are served with Tuscan extra virgin olive oil and seasoned with the Essence of Chianti salt, as are the Garbanzo and white beans.
Then comes the beef! Served roasted, boiled with a veggie salad, and braised. You can up the anti with the famous Bistecca Alla Fiorentina for an extra €20. This cut of beef is guaranteed to summon a vision of Fred Flintstone.
An enormous steak, bone in for flavour, turned using asbestos gloves. There is not a cooking utensil invented that would cope with its size. Grilled over the open coals and rested on the side for the meat to absorb the fats and juices, tasting this is almost an out of body experience.
The menu is accompanied by loaves of crunchy Tuscan bread and Chianti Classico to wash it all down.
Coffee, olive cake, grappa and “Italian Military Spirits” follow. Is it any wonder the guitar is out and the singing commences?
Dining with the famous Mad Butcher of Panzano; it’s a thing we love….
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Great blog. The butcher’s mad mate looks vaguely familiar.
Thanks, Golden Oldies. The face seemed familiar to me too, but I’m not sure from where. 😉
As someone drifting slowly toward vegism, you may have tempted me back to the dark side. The bistecca sounds to die for. Speaking of expiring, the whole Mad Butcher thing is a bit reminiscent of that fabulous early 90’s movie, “Delicatessen”. Love the pic of the Mad Butcher and his Mad Mate, too. Great write up!
The Bistecca was THE most delicious steak I’ve consumed to date so it won’t be possible for me to consider vegism while thoughts of it roam my subconscious and, strangely, “Delicatessen” has been a recent topic of conversation so I know exactly where your head is at. 😉
So how did Ed Gein spawn so many horror conventions? And just what did he do to earn his nickname of the Mad Butcher of Plainfield ?
Nice blog. I look forward to someday when I can meet this out-of-the-box butcher in person.
Oh, Souparna, he is out-of-the-box for sure but so lovely and friendly. He is engaging and shares his philosophy in such a great way, with food! 😉
The absolutely finest meat-eating experience. Do not miss this if you’re ever in Tuscany!
Absolutely, Dietrich! What an incredible experience. Ms Tokody is in for a repeat performance….. 😉