Guangzhou in a Flash
I love Chinese New Year. Once a year migrant workers get to go home and see their loved ones for a couple of weeks. Train stations are full to overflowing, every public transport option has been booked for months and major cities becomeĀ deserted.
This Chinese new year is the year of the goat so itās appropriate weĀ go to Guangzhou or, as itās also known,Ā ā5 goat cityā. Legend has it 5 fairies carrying bundles of rice rode intoĀ town on 5 different coloured goats to give blessings for the harvest.Ā On completion, the fairies vanished leavingĀ the goats to turn to stone. The stone goats can be foundĀ in Yuexui Park usually included in photographs of groups of ChineseĀ hoping their good fortune and prosperity will rub off. The goat is also the 8th sign in Chinese astrology and 8 is a veryĀ lucky number symbolising wisdom, fortune and prosperity soĀ we are all in for a good year.
Guangzhou and I have a long history. In aĀ pastĀ life my businessĀ was based there. In a past, past life I traveled in and out on someone elseās business. In this life I went with the Baron for a bit of R and R and to catch up with some friends.
Getting to Guangzhou is easy. Fly directly into Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport (CAN) orĀ you can take the Kowloon Canton Rail (KCR) from Hong Kong. IāveĀ taken the KCR option in the pastĀ due to CANĀ beingĀ quite aĀ way out of the city centre and Guangzhouās traffic is notoriously heavy. Ā The KCR arrives at Central Guangzhou and Guangzhou East stations so cab rides to the business and entertainment areas are short with less traffic.
Taking the KCR requires you to have aĀ China visa so get this either in your home country (generally the most cost effective) or apply in Hong Kong. A same day service is offered at a price or, if you are spending time in Hong Kong, the regular priced service takes 2 ā 4 days depending on your nationality. A regular China visa obtained prior to arrival gives you free reign to move around the country within the visa specifications.
If Guangzhou is yourĀ only destinationĀ in China and itās a short visitĀ then dispense with the hassle of visa applications andĀ arrive at CAN. Guangzhou and about 10 other cities in China have a 72 hour visa free transit period for 50 odd countries. You can find out if your country qualifies and the procedure to followĀ here. ThisĀ visa can not be obtained if you arrive via any other methodĀ than airĀ travelĀ andĀ there are a few restrictions so read the instructions carefully.
With visasĀ out of the way letās go to the hotel. Iām not going to give you a list of options, hotel booking sites can do that, I wantĀ to tell you about my favourite.
A magnificent central floral display greets you in the foyer of The Garden Hotel before the gold mural behind the reception desk captures your attention. Ginger flower scent permeates and staff are courteousĀ and well trained. The hotel is centrally located in the business and entertainment districtĀ andĀ the hotel itself has many dining and relaxation options if venturingĀ out is not on the agenda.
A special mention should be made of theĀ gold mural in reception. Itās a stunning piece measuring 24m x 6m and is weighed down byĀ 2kg of gold leaf. It depicts 12 scenes from the Chinese classic āThe Dream of the Red Chamberā and took Ā 30 people 7 months to carve and inlay the gold.
The Baron had already checked in, having arrived on an earlier flight, so we made our way to The Tavern on the hotelās ground floor.Ā Happy Hour runs from 6pm ā 9pm and daily snacks are included. WeĀ enjoyedĀ bakedĀ oysters on this occasion, igniting the appetite for something more.
You can wander out in the street and find copious dining options, it doesnāt matter which hotel exit you use, food surrounds the Garden Hotel. Take Jian She 6th Street exit, turn left and on both sides of the street entire buildings of restaurants offer global cuisines. We had a hankering for Xingjiang chuanār, skewers of beef orĀ lamb covered in a rub consisting of cumin, coriander seed, chili powder, salt and sometimes sesame seeds cooked over a charcoal grill. Itās street food really but a casual restaurant just up the road serves them and they have a pretty good wine list too.
Leave the hotel via the main entrance and turn right. Follow Huanshi East Road until you reach the first elevated walkway and cross to the other side. At the base of the stairsĀ turn left into theĀ side street and walk 50m or so.Ā Itās on the left hand side of the street with a small outdoor area and a big yak on the bar inside. It would be helpful ifĀ I could find their card.
Across from the Garden Hotel is the original Friendship Store. Friendship stores started in the 1950s and wereĀ the only stockists ofĀ imported goods andĀ foreign newspapers. Local Chinese were forbidden to enter and purchases were made with foreign exchangeĀ certificates. This may be the original but times have changed and it offers all the retail pleasure other malls do.
The Great Fire Wall of China blocks all social media sites and now blocks gmail. Be prepared and download a VPN before you go. There is no guarantee you will have access but a VPN gives you a better chance. I have aĀ gmail account and was able to download my emails once before I was detected and unable to get around it again during my stay. This posed a problem contacting a good friend but as he had opened a restaurant we planned to lunch thereĀ on the off chance ofĀ running into him.
My friend is a bit of an entrepreneur, heĀ has his fingers in a fewĀ pies but this is hisĀ first neighbourhood bar and kitchen. His partner in crime is young and energetic New Zealander, Aaron, who holds the reigns and runs the show. Open for just onĀ 1 year, Social&Co offersĀ a relaxed all day dining service of small plates encouraging diners to share.
Hungry? The menu includes comfort food along with lighter options for the carb conscious. We shared the Pork Belly with Aaronās Mumās plum sauce and just as the menu promised it was sticky sweet with excellent crackling. We were on a good thing with Mum soĀ had her Cauliflower Patties and later in the day tried the Lemon and Chili dusted Calamari. Both delicious. Thatās the beauty of the small plates, order as you go and graze.Ā Should I mention we repeated the Pork Belly? It was at the Baronās insistence of course. We didnāt go near desserts, who could after 2 serves of pork belly, but someone should have the Pavlova and the Banoffee Pie and letĀ me know how good they are.
Thirsty? Beers from Germany, Belgium, The Netherlands, France and the two best commercial exports from my home town, Coopers Sparkling and Pale Ales. Wines were the hilight for me. I was pleasantly surprised at the affordable prices for the quality drops on the wine list. Italian Prosecco, French Rosé and Tuscan Chianti but the real surprise, the Sauvignon Blancs and Pinot Noir from New Zealand and the Shiraz from the Clare Valley. Well priced and well selected.
Social&Co caters to the expat community and local Chinese alike. In their first year they have been awarded Thatās PRD Best New Restaurant and sit at #4 out of 5000 odd restaurants in Guangzhou on Trip Advisor. They offerĀ discounts on presentation of The FACE and APC cards, host the occasional drag bingo night and have impromptu āCards Against Humanityā games with the clientele. Itās like spending time at a really good friendās place with the added benefit of great service. Donāt take my word for it, check it out and let me knowĀ what you think.
In case youāre wondering, we tracked down my friend and had breakfast with him at the Cascade Cafe at the Garden hotel the following day. A great catch up in a lovely setting smack bang in the middle of Guangzhou. Not seeing someone for years and picking up where youĀ left off? Priceless, and another thing we loveā¦..




